Sanya, on the opposite coast, is the country's southernmost city and China at its most laidback. Here the beaches are long and white, the weather averages 23 degrees centigrade and the ocean is clear. The city of Sanya itself is – in common with beach resort cities the world over – is a tad kitsch. The shops sell China’s ubiquitous “tourist” uniform of matching Hawaiian shirt, shorts and straw cowboy hat at Rmb25 a set. And almost everyone seems to be wearing one, beetling behind their tour rep’s fluttering flag.
Sanya is also host to the International Wedding Festival 18-21 November each year – a bizarre and photogenic swarming of hundreds of Chinese couples reliving their big day.
Drive out to an unpoilt beach for the day
The town centre has a pleasant ocean boardwalk (where sunset falls bull’s-eye among the fishing boats) and a photogenic dock (you can flag down a sampan for a Rmb15 sunset tour, painted fishing boat). Most of the hotels are based around nearby Dadonghai and Sanya Bay.
Dadonghai Beach has over 50 locally-owned and operated hotels, catering mostly to Chinese and Russian tour groups. It is a long curved bay with a busy public beach, dotted with rented chairs and beach-loving tourists. Shark nets are set up to help alleviate swimmers’ fears.
Just up the beach on the boardwalk is a restaurant area serving seafood, with eight to 14-seat tables catering to noisy, hungry tour groups. For a quiet walks and beautiful scenery away from the crowds, take a five-minute cab ride to the Luhuitou Peninsula. At the hilltop is the beautiful Luhuitou Park famous for its lush tropical flora and fabulous views of the city and ocean.
Sanya Bay is 15km stretch of white beach, catering mostly to Chinese groups on cheap package tours. There are no international hotels, and the majority of quality English-speaking staff have been lured away to upmarket Yalong Bay.
Still, this beach is a great place to walk along, particularly in the evening. Picture postcard sunsets, complete with old fishing junks and pipe-smoking fishermen, are standard. After dark, there is a nice boardwalk for strolling or people-watching. A nice way to tour the city is to flag down one of the many motorbike and sidecar taxis. You can negotiate an hour’s tour of the beaches and backstreets for around Rmb40. Grab an ice-cold beer from one of the ubiquitous corner shops and don’t forget to slow down when you hit the seafront where hundreds of locals gather to perform synchronised disco-dancing.
Nightlife in Sanya is centered along Dadonghai Beach. Most of the action is on Yuhai Lu, where there are rows of seafood restaurants and beachside bars. Some of the beachside hotels have barbecues and various types of musical performances (both Western and Chinese).
Food-wise, Sanya’s most atmospheric and fun eating option turns out to be its cheapest. As the sun goes down locals set up makeshift BBQ restaurants in the streets surrounding the beaches and markets. Simply find yourself a table and then buy what you want from any of the vast number of food stalls and wok wagons assembled by the locals. A delicious and complete meal for one can be had for Rmb15-20. A large bottle of cold beer (from the corner shop) should cost around Rmb4-6.
Yalong Bay 25km east of Sanya City is the focus of the current upscale building boom. It has a 7km stretch of white sand beach, perfect for sunbathers and beach sports fanatics. The bay is privately owned and operated. This high security makes it ideal for families with young children. Indeed many of the hotels, particularly the pioneering Sheraton Sanya Resort, have special clubs and day-schools designed to keep children amused and parents hands-free. If all this organization and cleanliness leaves you with cabin fever for some good old fashioned seaside city sleaze, grab a taxi to downtown Sanya for about Rmb50 one-way.
